Angkor: Before the Crowds Arrived (Video)

Roots at Ta Prohm Temple, Cambodia ©Russell Johnson

I have seen the pictures: tourists mugging and doing fish-face selfies amongst the ancient temples of Angkor, one of the world’s heritage treasures. In 2018, Cambodia attracted an estimated 5.5 million international tourists, many of which descended like a plague upon Angkor.

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Dancing With the Apes: Kecak Dance, Bali

I intensely dislike monkeys. Maybe it is just envy. Although there is ample evidence that our evolutionary stem has developed a superior brain, deep down at the coccyx of my psyche there may still exist the tail stub of an ape. Maybe I still have a repressed urge to play with myself in public, fling my feces and steal every shiny object that isn’t nailed down.
At the Uluwatu temple in Bali, Indonesia I got stuck in a tourist trap, a narrow passageway facing a phalanx of not-so-great apes. Luckily I had been warned to remove my glasses and shiny objects and clutch my camera. But a woman in front of me was not so cautious. She let out a scream as a marauding macaque snatched her earring and taunted her to return it in exchange for a banana. Come to think of it, this hairy extortionist might consider an alternate career in banking.

But monkeys are untouchable in this Hindu temple perched on a cliff above the Indian Ocean. Every night, in a performance of the Kecak, or Monkey Dance, the monkey-like Varana helps a prince fight off an evil king while 100 men chatter like macaques.

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A River Trip Into Borneo in 1986 (Video)

Anthony Bourdain took a boat ride up the Skrang River on the island of Borneo for his TV show “Parts Unknown” recently. It looked quite different than the steamy place I visited in back in 1986. Here is a video I shot when things were more jungly and wild.

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