Avoiding contact with people and viruses, we spent a day in contact with nature at Bodega Bay on the California coast. It was before the crowds got the same idea and jammed the beaches over the weekend. Here are some of the sights and sounds.
Where can you still feel safe in a crowd? How about wandering a bog in Central California with thousands of birds swirling about the skies?
Our strategy on minimizing contact with germs is maximizing it with nature. We’re trying to get out on a hike every day.
My wife Pat and I just shared a winter vacation with a massive gaggle of snow geese.
A couple of weeks ago, we paid a visit to snow goose vacationland at the Merced National Wildlife Refuge near Los Banos, California (I understand they get a group rate from AirBird&Bird). For them, this is paradise. Like most vacationers, they mostly eat and sleep, gorging on tubers during the day and line dancing in the sky in the evening, before fluttering off to find a safe pond to sleep.
California in winter is cold and damp (that’s why the lady bird is a tramp) unless you are a snow goose for which it is an escape to the tropics, refuge from the howling winds and endless nights of the Arctic. They’re heading back in March, dodging hunters bullets, to nest on the tundra and make fuzzy birdie babies.
It Takes A Gaggle
Humans have a lot to learn from snow geese. They are intensely loyal to their partners and friends. They mate for life and will gather around an injured comrade to protect it. They also follow the philosophy It takes a gaggle. When it is time to fly north they line up politely in a V formation creating a slipstream – same as race cars – that pulls the rest of them along. For the Head Goose, this is pure hell, unselfishly flapping away, setting the pace on its own while the rest honk it along. At least it is given the opportunity to slip to the back to where it can relax and glide along while a new leader endures the torture.
NOTE: I wrote this story in 2006. Now, in 2020, it appears that Mr. Peanut is being killed off in a Superbowl Ad. My prediction is that the announcement is part of a PR campaign that would make Max Bialystock proud.
Mr. Peanut, with top hat, tails, white gloves and monocle, is a Broadway kind-a-guy. His salty self first appeared on the Great White Way in 1942. Peanut staged a comeback in 1999 and now occupies a huge billboard. Probably deservedly so as he is the official snack of NASCAR.
Above: Venice Reflection ©1999 Russell Johnson
A video we shot in 1999 of the reflection of a palace in a Venice canal.
Above: Labor Leader Harry Bridges Firing Up His San Francisco Longshoremen’s Rebellion , 1934
Waterfront is more than a geographical designation. Think noir. Think Bogart. Think drunken sailors Shanghaied to a slow boat to…Shanghai. The San Francisco waterfront has suffered its share of noir. The best known dark moment was Bloody Thursday, July 5, 1934, when striking members of the International Longshoremen’s Association, under the leadership of Harry Bridges, were charged by mounted police who fired teargas and shotguns. Two men were killed and many injured. This, and the parade and general strike that followed, were credited with spurring the revitalization of America’s labor movement. Injured strikers were carried to the ILA’s union hall, which, since 2017, has been headquarters for San Francisco’s Commonwealth Club.
The Commonwealth Club was founded in 1903 as a non-partisan forum for “discussing problems and their solutions”. It has featured thousands of speakers, from presidents to Pulitzer Prize winners, since Theodore Roosevelt addressed the body in 1911. Now there are now about 400 speakers per year with membership and events open to the public. And it offers tours of San Francisco’s waterfront, by architectural historian Rick Evans.
Evans begins by holding up a map showing that today’s waterfront was mostly bay water at the time of the Gold Rush. Ships delivering miners and supplies docked at its edge and were often abandoned. San Francisco’s waterfront was extended into the bay on a foundation of landfill and the bones of dead ships, some of which still turn up in excavations. The area went from riches, during the Gold Rush era, to a seedy port and industrial district, sliced in two in 1959 by the ragged-edged dagger of the Embarcadero Freeway, and returned to riches after San Francisco’s “freeway to nowhere” was torn down following the 1989 earthquake. The waterfront came out of the shadows. Now, some would suggest, it has gone beyond mere riches.
I really had to use my imagination to see what this waterfront once looked like. I gazed up at the new Facebook headquarters and architect Jeanne Gang’s twisty MIRA skyscraper, the design, the architect says, inspired by San Francisco’s iconic bay windows. All under imperious eye of the Salesforce Tower, which now commands the San Francisco skyline, and the teetering Millennium Tower. Oh, look over there! Coming soon, Uber headquarters.
Chase Center, San Francisco ©2020 Russell Johnson
San Francisco’s new waterfront runs 7½ miles from Fisherman’s Wharf to India Basin. On the other end is the newly opened Chase Center, home of the Golden State Warriors basketball team. There are urban legends that you can score a ticket for as little as $25 here, but hundreds is more the reality (thousands during playoffs). But this is not your rust-belt uncle’s arena. It is filled with art, including a Calder mobile, and offers treats ranging from hot dogs to designer whiskies.
Nearby, the University of California Medical Center and Kaiser Permanente have built massive campuses. This is a new world and new kind of community, far from quaint romance and tatty charm of old San Francisco. Will this neighborhood of sometimes-brilliant architecture in a field of Lego apartment blocks find its place in San Francisco lore? In the pages of Architectural Digest and Forbes, maybe, but Tony Bennett would never sing about it.
Back at the historic waterfront, the mail sorting room of the old Rincon Post office is now an open courtyard surrounded by steel and glass offices and apartments. Look closely, however, and there is still much history to be seen. The lobby is ringed by a 27 WPA murals depicting California and San Francisco’s past from the original Native Americans, to Spanish explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo displaying his blood-tipped sword and longshoreman Harry Bridges firing up his workers’ rebellion.
Back on the Embarcadero, Evans tells the story of the Audiffred Building. Just in front of it, police fired their shots into the crowd on Bloody Thursday. It is the oldest surviving building on the waterfront because, as Evans tells us, the bar on its main floor was a favorite of firemen, who saved it from being bulldozed into a firebreak following the 1906 earthquake after a bartender bribed them with two quarts of whiskey apiece and a fire cart full of bottles of wine.
Now, that’s a real San Francisco story.
Rick and the Commonwealth Club also offer Neighborhood Adventures in “the back alleys” of Chinatown, Nob Hill, and the steep slopes of Russian Hill, which he calls his cardio tour. The tours are available to members and non-members and can be found in the events section of commonwealthclub.org
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